
Danceshow in Palenque
Every time I go to a new place, I like to walk around a bit in the evening, go to
Palenque is… basically a village in the heart of Chiapas, that is at the same time pretty touristy while also showing the contrast between the “rich” Mexico and the poorer Chiapas. With touristy I don’t mean super chique or beautiful. Rather that fairly many tourists are running around in Palenque, because there are three really beautiful and impressing sights nearby, which don’t really exist like that anywhere else in Mexico. So, even if Palenque isn’t the biggest or hasn’t really got any sights itself, it’s still worth a visit 😊:D
Every time I go to a new place, I like to walk around a bit in the evening, go to
The ruins of Palenque! In the middle of the jungle, really beautiful and completely different from all other ruin sites.
Pompous, huge, breathtaking. No seriously, my jaw really dropped and I was speechless for a moment. Even though I’d been
Streets
Agua Azul
Mishol-Ha
Ruins of Palenque
Danceshow
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Basic information
What: Streets & Vibe of Palenque
Where: Palenque
Opening hours: 24/7
Fee: free of charge
Website: non-existent
Palenque is a small but very well-known town in the heart of Chiapas. When I arrived to Palenque, I – as usual – walked with my back then travel buddy to the hostel. Before we arrived, I had heard that Chiapas was the poorest state in Mexico and, to be honest, I didn’t think much of it. Probably because everything I’d been warned about concerning Mexico (danger etc) hadn’t been true. This time, however, I could see the difference.
The houses were poorer, the people dressed more simple and plain, the means of transport were reduced to a minimum – buses and cars and so on. And in terms of food, there were only street food stalls and hardly any restaurants. To be honest, I felt almost shabby walking past people to my hostel as a white person with my backpack. People who probably only come out of Palenque for work or family. I still remember the look on a woman’s face, who looked at me more blatantly than I had ever seen before or since. That look said it all. It was an expression of the difference between us. The different financial situation, the different possibilities… simply everything. And please don’t get me wrong, I didn’t have the feeling that the woman wanted to steal something from me or try to harm or scare me or whatever. It was simply a reality check that had its effect.
The streets of Palenque are not all like this, of course. You notice it everywhere, but in some corners more and less in others. Towards the centre, for example, there are an incredible number of street food stalls with all kinds of delicacies, such as horchata de coco (a really cool coconut drink), tamales (a kind of cereal porridge with meat, potatoes or even sweets mixed in, which looks like nothing but is surprisingly tasty and filling), batido de plátano (banana milkshake) etc., which I personally fell in love with in Palenque and which are really ridiculously cheap! And so good! God! 😀 By the way, by cheap I mean less than one euro. Tamales cost less than the equivalent of 50 cents and two of them fill me up. Therefore: really cheap. Apart from really great street food, there are also souvenir shops on every corner in the centre. Here you can find these colourful braided bracelets that pretty much everyone is offering you, which are also sold on the street. In terms of price: 5 pesos for locals, 10 pesos for tourists and if it’s more than that I would just keep walking because -> these things are really everywhere! But your choice 😊 I myself bought three bracelets in Palenque, which I still wear with a lot of love today, just like my bracelet from Mérida 😊
Apart from that, the centre or tourist zone in Palenque is relatively okay, but not particularly crowded because Palenque itself doesn’t have too many sights. These are more in the area surrounding of Palenque: Misol-Ha, Agua Azul and the Zona Arqueológica de Palenque. And yes, every single one of these places is completely and one hundred per cent worth it! As most tourists don’t necessarily have the time or inclination to find out how to get to the individual places on their own – because yes, of course you can – most book a tour and do the two waterfalls (Misol-Ha & Agua Azul), as well as the ruins, in a day trip. As a result, you’re constantly being offered a tour, or “hit on”, as I like to call it, which can actually be a bit annoying. At the same time, they just want to earn their money so….
There is a large square in the city centre, where a show once took place in the evening while I was there, but more on that in another post. Otherwise, there is usually a market set up here, which invites you to take a stroll. And if it’s brewing in the sky, just stand under somewhere for half an hour or 45 minutes until it’s all over again, the sun comes out and Palenque appears in new splendour. It’s really something 😀 I sat out my first downpour in the hostel and still remember how I climbed onto the roof of my hostel afterwards. From there you had a great view of the rooftops and the surrounding area. Plus the things Mexicans leave unfinished on their houses… 😀 Also a reality check.
Basic information
What: Waterfall Agua Azul
Where: near Palenque
Opening hours: you should be there between 11am and 4pm. Before and after, the roads in Chiapas can be a little less safe than during the day
Fee: 80 pesos (entrance + road) + 50 pesos for the colectivo from Misol-Ha to Agua Azul and back
Website: I have not found an official one
Pompous, huge, breathtaking. No seriously, my jaw really dropped and I was speechless for a moment. Even though I’d been to Misol-Ha shortly before, which had also really impressed me. But Agua Azul is really next level and tbh probably the coolest and most impressive waterfall I’ve seen on my entire trip through Mexico and Central America. And Mexico has a lot of waterfalls. 😀
Admittedly… it was my first time there during the rainy season. Meaning: I got a lot of agua, but little to no azul. And the waterfall advertises that the water is turquoise blue etc. It is. Just not during rainy season. I found that out in the dry season when I was there again. But it also makes total sense. All the rain stirs up a lot and then of course it’s much muddier and browner. I mean the water obviously.
Nevertheless, if you only want to go there because of the ‘Azul’, I wouldn’t advise you not to go just because it’s the rainy season. Despite this expectation (tuquoise blue water), I was completely blown away. The thing is absolutely stunning. Like you don’t need the special colour to be impressed. It’s the powerful force of the water that creates a kind of mist over the waterfall, the water that comes down with a roar that makes you realise what power water can have and the nature of the whole area. Agua Azul is, azul (blue) or not, awesome. Just as in the dry season, when Agua Azul becomes Agua Azul. Then the water is less powerful, but you have this wonderful view of the pozos, which really do miraculously have this incredible blue colour. (Unless it has rained heavily shortly before 😉)
To briefly explain Agua Azul: it is, let’s say, a multi-level waterfall that you actually walk up along a path that leads directly along the individual waterfall levels. Along the way, you can explore nature, marvel at the smaller waterfalls of the big one and go on a bit of an exploration tour, take photos and simply enjoy nature and the surroundings. Once you reach the top, there is a kind of ‘pond’ or small lake where you can swim. Apart from that, you can look down on the whole waterfall at the end and…. The view is really amazing. It really is. I’ve rarely seen anything more fascinating, engaging and beautiful in my life. Really stunning. And no, of course the photo doesn’t do the reality justice 😀
And for the more adventurous among you: if you walk further afterwards and follow the river from which the cascade itself springs, you’ll also pass some really beautiful spots. I even got as far as the source of the waterfall. Not when I was there on a tour. You only have time for a short mini-excursion. And only if you don’t go splashing around extensively and don’t stop somewhere for food. With a tour, you are limited in time. When I was there without a tour, however, I really took my time and made my way to the source called ‘La Boquilla’. But you can’t go there on your own because somehow two different tribes have their territory and it has to be organised between them. Whether this is true or not remains a mystery, but the vibe was there, so I just took it as a fact at the time.
This section starts a bit after Agua Azul. I was approached when I was curious and simply walking towards the crevice with the spring behind it, which I had discovered from a distance, and was then kindly led there by the person in question. In fact, when I was standing at the spot from where you could see the spring, I also saw people looking and giving off the vibe ‘Ey, who is that and what is she doing in our area’. Of course I could be wrong, but that’s how it seemed to me. So do it with a local guide and not alone. However, I don’t know how much this might cost today. I got into the situation by chance back then.
Go or not? I`m sorry, but this shouldn’t be a question. You’re really missing out if you don’t go and you should definitely take Misol-Ha with you on the way. Both waterfalls are… simply beautiful.
Basic information
What: Waterfall Misol-Ha
Where: near Palenque
Opening hours: 24/7 (I would go early, but after sunrise. When it’s dark, the roads in Chiapas get a bit unsafe; best to go between 11am and 5pm, be back by 5pm)
Fee: according to the internet 40 pesos (entrance (20) + grotto (10) + road (10) (yes you also pay for the road on foot) + 50 (colectivo there&back – I think)
Website: none specific (shame on me)
Elegant, beautiful, impressive. That’s how I would describe Misol-Ha. In fact, my first reaction to the waterfall was a loud ‘wow’ when I saw it for the first time. A simply beautiful, impressive, elegant waterfall in the middle of the jungle. Surrounding it is an absolute paradise with everything your heart desires: a lagoon, opportunities to explore and also just to gaze around in fascination. It’s simply a real paradise with a lagoon, waterfall and cave. Amazing!
The waterfall is located just outside Palenque, but is relatively easy to reach by bus or on a tour. If you take the bus, you have to walk a bit, but you also have more time and – as in my case – the waterfall almost completely to yourself 😀
I was actually there twice. Once during the rainy season and once during the dry season. I hadn’t actually planned to experience the waterfall in such different ways. I just simply went by tour the first time and…. Too little time sorry. At least for me. Simply because Misol-Ha is not just a waterfall. You can climb up a rock in front of the waterfall – only the brave among you, of course 😉 – and look out into the natural landscape behind it, which is a really beautiful view. As the view of the waterfall and the lagoon of course. 😀 Apart from that, a path leads along behind the waterfall – which is cool in itself. The path then leads further on to a cave. And there’s another cute little waterfall and bats 😊 However, you don’t necessarily have time for all these extra excursions if you’re there on a tour. Then it’s out of the bus, down to the waterfall, back up again, briefly to the rock and that’s it. Or alternatively into the cave or into the water. But under time pressure. And you definitely can’t do everything. But Misol-Ha is a wonderful natural idyll that should really be enjoyed. Like it’s really beautiful there. For real 😀
So I would advise you to take a colectivo heading in the direction of Agua Azul and get dropped off at the turn-off to Misol-Ha – it’s on the way. Then follow the road for… about 15 minutes I think – it’s not far/long – and then you’ll arrive automatically. And of course you might think ‘Isn’t that dangerous?’, but a) nothing happened to me back then and b) no local warned me that something could happen. And I was really always warned – often about things where I thought to myself ‘Well…. Maybe they’re exaggerating a bit because of my looks and stuff’ (unfortunately, girls and women are generally considered to have less guts – very exhausting). Therefore: I was always warned when I was about to get into a situation that might not be entirely safe. Mexicans are generally quite open, nice and caring and would rather warn you once more than once too little. So I think that should be fine. 😊 Nevertheless, it’s always a good idea to ask what the situation is like today.
Go or not? Definitely. One of the most beautiful waterfalls in Mexico in my opinion.
Basic information
What: Ruins
Where: near Palenque
Opening hours: 08.00 – 16.30 (here: be there as early as possible while it’s already light)
Fee: 90 pesos (according to the internet) I only went with a tour, which I regretted, so take the colectivo (50 there and back) and take your time
Website: there is not really an official one
The ruins of Palenque! In the middle of the jungle, really beautiful and completely different from all other ruin sites. Because of the symbiosis with the jungle. To be honest, I wonder why not more people know about these pyramids or talk about them. And don’t get me wrong, it’s just right like it is – not too crowded, but at the same time you’re not alone. Nevertheless, you walk into a real paradise. You walk along a path through the jungle to the pyramids, the first of which you then look up to from under the trees. Nature and the ruins have simply grown together here. Of course, there are also ruins that stand completely alone and don’t have trees towering next to or behind them or half disappear into the jungle. Nevertheless, it is a real symbiosis of jungle and ruins, which gives the whole thing an incredible calmth and grace.
It is also the only ruin site where there is no clear path from A to B. At the time, I found it confusing and didn’t know where to go first because everything was so beautiful and the whole area was simply enchanting and unfortunately I was under time pressure because I was there on a tour. Today I think that it’s really cool. You’re given the freedom to just explore and see where your nosiness takes you next. As a result, it’s not quite so overcrowded, cause everyone takes a different route. At least it wasn’t the case when I was there.
Another cool thing is that it’s completely interactive. You can climb almost anywhere, have a really great view from one of the highest pyramids and simply feel like you’re in a jungle of ruins. It’s like being in a huge playground in the countryside with lots of great ruins to play on. When you’ve had enough of that – or, like me, the time pressure drives you on – you walk along a path through the jungle and get to see a few more things: a few ruins, a waterfall, a cute bridge and a few more things. It’s a really big area. There’s just one thing you should be aware of: you can’t go back. Well, you can, but then you have to go all the way back through the jungle. So you should be sure when you leave the ruins area. My advice: stay with the ruins for as long as you can/want. They make up the biggest part of the things you want to see. You’ll need a maximum of 30 to 40 minutes to pass through the second area with the jungle part. And only if you take lots of photos or videos or are incredibly fascinated by the jungle itself.
Go or not? For me, there’s no question about it. When you’re in Palenque, you simply have to do these three things: Misol-Ha, Agua Azul and the ruins. You’ll need two days for the three things without a tour, one with a tour. But I would recommend doing it on your own 😀 And for me, skipping is like…. Robbig yourself of a wonderful experience. Because Chiapas is the most beautifully lanscaped part of Mexico. So… what are you waiting for? 😀 😊
Basic information
What: Dance show in Palenque
Where: Centre of Palenque (you really can’t miss the main square :D)
Opening hours: it was in the evening
Fee: for free
Website: this will probably – in case f accouncement – be announced on a site like the mayor’s office
Every time I go to a new place, I like to walk around a bit in the evening, go to the centre and just see what’s going on. This time I had already seen the stage being set up, but hadn’t really given it a second thought. So it was all the cooler to walk into this… let’s call it show.
It started with two people playing guitar and singing and continued with various dance groups. As I had already seen a lot of different dances in Mérida, I naively expected that it ‘probably’ wouldn’t be that big of a difference. Well, far fetched. I had often been told beforehand that Mexico actually has many different cultures within one country. And therefore, of course, many different traditional dances. I learnt this lesson in Palenque. While I was impressed by the tap dancing in Mérida, in Palenque I wondered how they learnt to swing their skirts like that. I mean seriously…. I don’t think it’s as easy as it looks. Especially not with the precision. And it must be really hard on the arms and everything. 😀 And the music is also completely different – at least to me. So I was once again impressed and really enjoyed the spectacle. 😀
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