A train ride on the Chepe from Los Mochis through...
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What: Train from Los Mochis to Barrancas del Cobre (El Divisadero) (You can continue on to Chihuahua)
Where: Boarding: Los Mochis; Exit: Barrancas del Cobre/El Divisadero
Opening hours: Be there early in the morning to wait for the train and to get a seat; arrival at el Divisadero was around midday (the train is fast, but not super fast – which is great for photos and videos :D)
Fee: first class: extremely expensive. Second class: reasonable (I will anotate the price I paid asap)
Website: will be added asap (there are many, but I am still looking for one with the correct and important information on departure times and prices, etc.)
A train ride on the Chepe from Los Mochis through the countryside in northern Mexico is one of the coolest things you can do in Mexico. For me, this experience ranks in the top 3 of everything I’ve done in Mexico and is an absolute must-do when travelling through Mexico. And apart from that, I felt a bit like riding the Hogwarts train alongside Harry Potter through the countryside 😀
To give you a few key details up front: the train departs from Los Mochis and travels to Chihuahua. It stops at various places along the way where you can get on or off. You pay according to the distance you travel. You can travel first or second class on the Chepe. First class can be booked, but it costs so much that I immediately knew ‘nope’ (I don’t remember exactly how much it was, but… expensive!!! Especially for (budget) backpackers, honestly not really affordable). First class is also colour-coded, the interior and the restaurant car look different, and as a second-class ticket holder, you are not allowed to enter first class – not even to look around or check out the view from the front. Since they probably thought I was looking for my seat (I just look like a gringa (American/tourist) to them), they didn’t stop me when I went on an exploratory tour of the first class, but they did notice the second time when I was without my rucksack. So therefore I know: there is strict class separation here.
Back to ticket prices. Second class is significantly cheaper because this is where the locals travel. However, it has the disadvantage that you have to ‘fight’ for your seat. This means arriving early and then, when the train arrives and the conductor allocates seats, being quick and getting the attention of the conductor before the other people waiting – and no, you can’t just get on the train, you have to make sure the conductor sees you and assigns you seats, and then you can get on. I was just lucky that I’m taller than most Mexicans, speak Spanish and the train entrance was almost right in front of me.
Also important to know: the train only runs about three times a week. And it only takes as many people as there are seats, and when it’s full, it’s full. And until someone gets off, no more passengers will be allowed on. This means you should board in Los Mochis, because otherwise you may end up waiting for nothing. And… if there are more people waiting in Los Mochis than can fit on the train, then you or the others are simply out of luck. And no, first class – as empty as it may be (and it was yawning during my exploratory tour) – will not be filled up.
Last but not least, the stops: most backpackers, tourists or anyone else who isn’t using the train purely as a means of transport will definitely not want to miss one particular stop: Barrancas del Cobre (official name of the station) / el Divisadero (the ‘official’ name of the sight, if you google it) / El Mirador (among backpackers). At this stop, there is a viewpoint overlooking the canyon and… to be honest, I have rarely seen anything so beautiful in my life. And not just at this spot, but this canyon is simply… amazing. Really.
Since there are already really beautiful landscapes passing by before the Mirador, but according to my information, the most beautiful part of the landscape ends at the Mirador (i.e. the train does not continue along the canyon), I would recommend getting on at Los Mochis and getting off at the Mirador. There are really great things to do there, such as ziplining or simply walking or hiking along this beautiful canyon. It’s 100% worth it.
Soooo, let’s get back to the experience itself 😀 At the beginning of the journey, everything is still a bit hazy and foggy outside, because you leave really early. But very soon it becomes really sunny and you pass some truly beautiful landscapes, drive over bridges, through tunnels and can even stick your head out and stuff. It really has that dog sticking its head out of the car window vibe 😀 It’s truly an experience. And personally, I also felt like I had boarded at Platform 9 ¾ and was now on the Hogwarts Express with Harry, Hermione and Ron, heading for Hogwarts 😀
Take the Chepe or not? Admittedly, it’s not thaat easy to have this experience because Los Mochis is a tiny village in the north-west of Mexico that’s not super easy to get to, and you have to fight for a seat on the train, BUT! The whole thing was simply one of the coolest, most beautiful, most adventurous and most mind-blowing things I experienced in Mexico. And that’s why YES. If it’s possible, it’s a hundred per cent a must-do.

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